The future of haircare, according to Frédéric Fekkai

Beautiful Thinking.

As we bid farewell to a phenomenal year for haircare in 2024, we prepare for another transformative period of industry growth. We are not only championing the nostalgia of styles and traditions celebrated for generations, but also looking to a future of expansive new technologies and product formulations which change the way we look after our hair from scalp, to strand, to tip.

Who better to discuss what’s ahead (whilst celebrating how far the space has come) than industry legend Frédéric Fekkai.

After first meeting ahead of a brilliant keynote session during INNOCOS Napa Valley, our co-founder and Managing Partner, Nick Vaus, had the opportunity to explore FEKKAI’s remarkable story during a year in which the company marked 30 years of excellence.

Whilst covering the evolution of his iconic brand from inception to his decision to sell, and the passionate journey of reclaiming it, Frédéric and Nick reflected on everything from the dynamic fashion shoots of ‘80s New York, mingling with the era’s most celebrated A-listers, to the creation of his revolutionary salon within the prestigious Bergdorf Goodman, which set a new standard in luxury hair care.

A recurring theme throughout the dialogue was the importance of thinking differently and challenging the norm, a creative mantra that Frédéric has lived by and has significantly contributed to his enduring success in the competitive beauty industry.

This ability to innovate and set the standard in areas that have only just become industry norms within recent years has seen FEKKAI become a truly pioneering brand. This includes key evolving trends such as scalp care and the skinification of hair – topics which dominated Free The Birds’ trend forecast report, Crowsnest.

We asked Frédéric, what do you think comes next?

When I pioneered the idea of treating hair care like skincare, the goal was to elevate how we think about our hair—caring for it with the same precision, science, and quality ingredients. This approach has introduced great technology and science to haircare, incorporating potent ingredients that truly transform the hair and scalp. The next step, I believe, lies in personalisation. Consumers are seeking more tailored solutions that address their unique hair and scalp needs. Innovations in diagnostics, such as AI tools and in-salon analyses, will allow us to create truly bespoke regimens.

Further key trends our team highlighted in the trend report for Haircare in 2025 and beyond, included the celebration of curls. This has (finally) supported an explosion of products which recognise the specific needs of different hair types, as well as the styling products that are helping to achieve the most beloved styles taking over social platforms, from frizz-free slick backs, statement waves and nostalgic ‘90s styles.

Within this, we recognise the impact of and the excitement for the return of Fekkai’s iconic Styling Crème in 2024, which undoubtedly signalled the return of renowned trends from the ‘90s and ‘00s. We asked Frédéric, how does he bring modern technology and new product formulations to the beloved styling trends from these decades?

The 90s and 00s were about effortless elegance, glossy finishes, and hair that made a statement. Reviving the Brilliant Glossing Styling Crème this year was a nod to the 35th anniversary of my brand, but more importantly, it was a genuine response to the loyal customers who have been asking to “bring back the original formula” for years. This formula is timeless. It’s not just about nostalgia—it’s about what worked: the timeless shine, the luxurious texture. The result is a product that respects its origins but speaks directly to modern needs. Beyond this relaunch, we’re excited about the innovations we have for 2025—new technologies and formulations that will continue to elevate haircare while honoring what FEKKAI has always stood for.

With the rise of experiential retail in 2024, we expect this movement to dominate 2025, and haircare is no exception. Whilst the growth of at-home treatments and technologies have grown exponentially, customers continue to rely upon the experts who can guide them through the vast array of new possibilities available. From smart mirrors which utilise AI to professional tools, the salon is more important than ever.

As someone who has always championed the significance of the salon, we asked Frédéric how he envisions retail and salon experiences evolving in 2025.

Experiential retail and salons share a common goal: offering an emotional connection to the brand. For 2025, I see these experiences becoming more intertwined, blending the expertise of the salon with the accessibility of retail. Salons will remain the heartbeat of our brand—a place to educate, inspire, and transform, but by integrating digital elements, like virtual consultations or AI-powered personalisation tools, we’ll enhance these touchpoints, ensuring every interaction feels bespoke and meaningful.

Overall, we’re reminded that innovation and authenticity remain at the heart of truly great beauty experiences. From pioneering ingredients to reinventing salon culture, the opportunities to be harnessed are truly exciting for brands and customers alike.

To discover more of what’s ahead for haircare, why not delve further into our next generation trend forecasting report, Crowsnest, available here.

Here’s to championing creativity, meaningful connections, and the timeless allure of healthy, vibrant hair – today, tomorrow, and beyond.

Contact